French Christmas traditions

Christmas (and our hearts) will go on

Joyeux Noël from France

Bonjour, c’est Véro.

“Joyeux Noël !” I’ve said more often than not over the last few days in person or in writing. In 2024 it would appear “Bonnes Fêtes !” (Happy Holidays) is a more consensual choice.

I have a hard time believing that anyone of a different faith would be offended when I wish them a happy, peaceful Holiday season. You never know though: So many people love feeling outraged these days.

My heartfelt “Joyeux Noëls” all come from a lapsed Catholic (I am not proud of it.)

To me the term is more related to the traditions I grew up with in France than anything else.

I am also the lapsed Catholic who shakes her head at all the selfies and self-serving videos captured by Influencers and unknowns of all nationalities, colors and faiths at Notre-Dame cathedral over the last few weeks (often loudly) even when a service was going on.

I plan to visit the cathedral in the next few weeks, quietly. I expect a private, special moment even while navigating through huge crowds.

The city of Tours (Loire Valley) greets Christmas in style

Adieu 2024 ! Bon voyage !

Many around me seem to agree 2024 has been a dud, “un pétard mouillé.”

France did ok in some areas. It had high expectations and got a lot of attention thanks to the Summer Olympic and Para-Olympic games. No one anticipated the Opening Ceremony would become this controversial. Controversy is good for ratings or reach (as they say on social media.) The events were a success by all accounts (just don’t ask some restaurants and other business owners who complained about a drastic drop in revenue during the summer.)

Then there was the much publicized re-opening of Notre-Dame cathedral five years after the terrible fire that could be seen around the world. When “les Huiles” (French and worldwide elites) met inside the church on December 7 before it opened to the masses some wondered if they had turned on the wrong TV channel. They felt reassured once they witnessed a tribute to the ever-reliable Sapeurs-Pompiers (Firemen) de Paris and the talented artisans who had saved the cathedral in more ways than one.

Like Notre-Dame de Paris Emmanuel Macron the embattled French president, has been making the news all year (not in a good way.)

There was controversy when he delivered a speech inside the cathedral on December 7 (not outside, as originally planned) because of the ever-predictable Parisian winter weather. On December 7 “les Huiles” were promptly ushered inside the building as they arrived to avoid pelting rain and high winds. The Catholic church powers-that-be had done everything to discourage the president from making a speech within the sacred walls of Paris’ Old Lady. The separation of Church and State in France is not easy to explain or understand. I find it fascinating. It’s a fact no French politician (not even Charles de Gaulle, a devout Catholic) had dared speak publicly inside churches until Macron did.

He is not just any other French politician. Nicknamed “Jupiter” by some of his people, he reminds me of those tourists who are advised *not* to overtip in France and reply: “It’s my money and I will do what I want with it.” - Nobody likes a dismissive brag convinced of his exceptionalism.

Macron dissolved the National Assembly in June, causing enduring political instability. He went through Prime Ministers as if picking Kleenex from a tissu box during a Covid outbreak. To top it all he continues to deal with crises he could not have anticipated (natural disasters like the recent destruction of the island of Mayotte, a struggling French overseas territory.)

You might say the Prez’ had his hands full and kept the French incensed (see what I am doing here?)

Notre-Dame de Paris (December 2024) like France, still needs work

Other countries had other issues with their Prez’ (lame ducks and president-elects) their economy, aggressive neighbors, wars, civil wars, destruction, natural disasters and more.

Yes, Adieu 2024 ! You almost made me miss 2020 when the entire world came to a standstill, and I could enjoy Paris without timed reservations or lines.

Walking on the sunny side of the street

Closer to home the year was challenging too. In the course of a few months my family and extended family lost three of our “nonagénaires” (nonagenerian relatives.) One was my favorite aunt. I was on tour when she passed and couldn’t attend her funeral in August. So I paid Henriette a visit at the local cemetery later in September near my hometown, Toulouse.

There was a lot of work, a lot of traveling, of lot of goodbyes as I had little time to enjoy friends and family between assignments. Such is the life of an itinerant guide during touring season.

In November I led my last group tour, a weeklong Parisian extravaganza and in spite of horrid weather was rewarded with a fun, engaging group of travelers who rolled with the punches and stayed in high spirits.

A snowy morning in Montmartre (post hot chocolate break)

Staying in high spirits is what I try to do, come what may. I call it “walking on the sunny side of the street.”

Life is better and warmer there if you manage to stay on that sidewalk long enough.

In a few days I will be hosting Christmas Eve at my parents’ place in the Paris suburbs, a simplified affair around a “buffet dinatoire”. My American-born son will be there. After Christmas I’ll be kidnapping him to spend a few days downtown before he flies home to the US.

He loves living the life of a Frenchman, the young American. He does, speaking almost fluent French and knowing his way around the city he visited for the first time still inside his mother’s womb, just a few weeks before his birth over 25 years ago.

Teaching them young how to navigate the Paris Metro is essential

It’s been a wonderful year on Substack where more and more readers let me know they enjoy my writing. Crafting stories (fiction or non fiction) has been a favorite hobby for years (Remember the French Girl in Seattle blog?) and now it’s a side of my business too.

This adult educator is thrilled: I’ll be teaching French conversation classes through the winter. In 2025 I’ll launch new services in the Loire Valley with weeklong French Immersion programs for Intermediate and Advanced speakers.

For now virtual tour guiding in the magical Loire Valley is filling my days with wonderful discoveries I enjoy sharing with the France with Vero community. Langeais, Azay-le-Rideau (also available on Facebook) were a hit with viewers.

I’ve saved the best for last: a tour of mighty Château de Chambord at Christmas. Find the link at the end of this message.

It may feel like 2024 has tried to suck the “Joyeux” out of “Noël” but we won’t let it.

We’ll make the necessary adjustments and be flexible to enjoy the Season come what may.

This morning I was reminded of Holidays of yore when my brother and I attended a public elementary school outside Lille, northern France, so many decades ago.

The last afternoon before school shut down for a two-week break all students met in the cafeteria that had been turned into a movie theater of sorts. A large screen awaited in the back of the room.

Long, uncomfortable wood benches lined the tables where we had lunch every day, restaurant-style.

We all sat there in joyous mayhem, filled with anticipation. Once our raucous crowd calmed down it was time for le goûter de Noël (afternoon snacks.)

[French Christmas] traditions are traditions.

This was a simple affair: an orange, a brioche and a cup of juice served by “les dames de la cantine" (the cafeteria staff.)

Finally the time of the movie came. We switched around on the benches to face the screen, our backs propped up against the edges of the hard tables.

Without fail we were treated to an Asterix and Obelix animated movie. It was either “Astérix le Gaulois” (Asterix the Gaul) or “Asterix et Cléopâtre” (Asterix and Cleopatra.) Both movies had come out in the late 1960s and had become instant hits.

Asterix and Obelix chatting over a gourmet wild boar lunch

As we followed the most beloved Gallic heroes on their adventures while munching on a piece of soft brioche we all learned unquestionable facts and truths many among us still hold as self-evident:

Local life and distant adventures are best experienced with good friends by your side (two- or four-legged.)

L’union fait la force. There’s strength in numbers.

Good meals, however simple, are essential. They taste better when shared. Solidarité.

Keep your sense of humor and don’t take yourself too seriously.

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Joyeux Noël les amis. See you next year!

Chose promise, chose due. As promised.

Join me in Chambord, Loire Valley for the Holidays. Bonne visite !