Bonjour canicule (France is hot!)
Hot days survival tips from a French native
Bonjour, c’est Véro
My last “Lettre de France” dates back to May 11 when I took you to Arromanches, Normandy.
Today is June 21, C’est l’été, the first day of summer.
Life has been busy on the road for this tour guide. The end of the spring touring season is in sight. It will be followed by a decent summer break when I switch back to favorite activities (a vacation on the East Coast of the United States, visits to châteaux and local events,) a studious August before my October French Immersion workshops in the Loire Valley and of course, some a lot of writing.
I’ve stayed in touch and hope you’ve enjoyed the “French Vignettes” I’ve shared in Substack’s “Notes” like this tribute to a venerable French cathedral, a reminder about an important date in French history or a fun French tutorial.
Thank you for your support, comments and shares.
Bienvenue to my new subscribers! I am glad you are here.
Cue in la canicule
It’s been hot in France over the last week. I know ‘Tis June and we complained for months about cold, soggy weather and the perpetual grisaille (grey skies.)
Still, is it too much to ask to get pleasant days in the 70s before we hike up to the high 80s and 90s?
As you know the French don’t care for air conditioning much or at least they didn’t use to. Things are changing fast but my countrymen remain French and they like to do things their way. I recently introduced North American clients to “the French A/C” and wrote about it years ago in a tongue-in-cheek post dedicated to… water.
Staying hydrated in France
Earlier this year I attempted to answer an essential question (which I know many out there, especially North Americans, ask) do the French get dehydrated?
When I visited Marseille earlier this year I could see with my own eyes entire parts of l’Hexagone (Metropolitan France) are not at risk and are getting plenty of hydration.
Not just with water mind you, though water is often involved.
We’ll always have Pastis
Is it Pernod? Is it Ricard? Is it Pastis?
In 2025 those names are often used interchangeably even if real connaisseurs (connoisseurs to anglophones though only God knows why!) could tell you that Ricard came first, in the 1930s.
Paul Ricard invented a drink (we’ll call it un apéritif anisé) to replace the famous absinthe (a potent wormwood-based concoction with a strong anise or licorice flavor banned for health reasons in 1915 before making a comeback in the 21st century.)
By 1951 some aniseed-based drinks had been authorized in France once again. The Pernod company came up with its own version of Pastis. Named Pernod 45 at first it became le Pastis 51, the leading brand in the Pastis world.
Today the Pernod-Ricard group dominates the anise-based spirituous market, Ricard and Pastis 51 each with a dedicated following.
Pastis dans le sud (in southern France) is a reference, a beverage of choice, a symbol of Marseille and Provence best enjoyed on hot days preferably with fellow pétanque players and in good company. The formula doesn’t change much though recipes remain a well-guarded secret (a blend of anise seeds, fennel and licorice roots.) Pastis does come with a warning: It’s strong with 45% alcohol content by volume.
A versatile drink it can be enjoyed nature, plain (in a tall, narrow glass, with plenty of cold water and ice cubes.) When mixed with syrups it takes a new name or a new color: “La Mauresque” (the Moorish drink, Pastis and almond-flavored orgeat syrup,) “le Perroquet” (the Parrot, Pastis and mint syrup,) or "la Tomate” (the Tomato, Pastis with grenadine - pomegranate - syrup.)
Big brands and their merchandising departments have capitalized on Pastis’ enduring popularity as demonstrated at local Ricard boutiques. Vintage editions of iconic Ricard products (glasses and water pitchers) sell comme des petits pains, like hot cakes, all over France at local brocantes. Hint: The online boutique is fun too!
Dehydrated? Look for the “Piscine” (no, not the swimming pool)
They say: “Don’t ever put ice cubes in French wine.”
France (and wine) experts may not have heard about le Rosé Piscine, rosé wine served in a big glass with ice cubes. It’s become a popular cocktail in southern France, chic and branché (trendy.) You can make your own or get a bottle of Rosé Piscine by Vinovalie.
The word “piscine” sells well. Fifteen years ago the Pernod brand came up up with another fun drink involving Pastis, the “51 Piscine.”
I learned about it in Marseille when I spotted une jolie bouteille bleue, a pretty blue bottle, on my restaurant table at lunch time.
Perk: The taste of the “51 Piscine” is more palatable than traditional Pastis because it’s more diluted than the original (7 volumes of water per volume of Pastis.)
Like the Rosé Piscine it can be served in big, round glasses. The branded ones - vintage editions - go quickly on the online resale market!
I just mentioned the attractive blue bottle released by Pernod when the 51 Piscine first came out. It’s become a collector’s item. Many eateries in Marseille have adopted it as their carafes d’eau (always the cheapest way to order and drink water in a French restaurant by the way.)
The 51 Piscine is light and refreshing, a great option on a hot summer night. Not every bar serves it. If you are lucky to drink it en terrasse in Marseille, why not order a plate of panisses, a local specialty?
What a welcome change from the predictable planches (charcuterie and cheese boards) served all over France these days! Those crispy tiny pancakes made with pois chiche (chickpeas) are sautéed in olive oil and served warm, the perfect apéro food (or side dish to accompany grilled vegetables and fish.)
Lest you believe I am encouraging my readers to drink (always in moderation bien sûr) keep in mind I am also all in favor of refreshing, non-alcoholic beverages. In fact as wine consumption continues to drop in France, their popularity is on the rise. They pop up at my friends’ parties more and more.
Earlier this week I sampled a delicious mocktail (a sexier name than it’s French counterpart, cocktail sans alcool) with local friends at a historic bar in Tours.
Whatever rocks your boat remember to add beaucoup de glaçons (ice cubes) to survive the next few days in la Belle France. In 2025, French waiters are happy to bring them to you — if you ask nicely.
You should also roll down those blinds in the morning; keep those windows shut all day and above all use the “French A/C” (your mineral water brumisateur available at a supermarket or pharmacy near you.)
See you on the other side.
Bel été à vous tous ! Happy summer!
When people say that no one in France would ever put ice in their wine, I tell them that in the South in the broiling summer your rosé is brought to the table in restaurants with a bowl of ice!
Je crois que vous êtiez mon professeur lors d'un cours de français voyageur que j'ai suivi au BCC il y a de nombreuses années. Je reviens tout juste de mon cinquième voyage en France. Je ne suis jamais déçu. Je sais que j'y retournerai.
Thank goodness for Google Translate!